Wandering through Old Louisville

Discovering Gatsby's inspiration, Hot Browns and a bygone era in Louisville

If you've been following my posts, you already know that I'm a bit obsessed with history. It’s my dad’s fault. He would take us to historical places every year, and the ones that captivated me the most were the old homes. That probably explains my deep love for architecture and interior design, alongside my fascination with history.

In every old home, I find a love story, a mystery waiting to be unraveled. The creaks of the floorboards and the whispers of the wind carry tales of lives lived and loved within these walls. Each room is a chapter in a timeless novel, inviting me to imagine the laughter, the tears, and the dreams that once filled this space.

Weekend in Louisville

A few years ago, my girlfriends and I were planning a weekend getaway near Nashville. I hadn’t been to Louisville since the 1990s, when a childhood friend spent a summer at Actors Theatre of Louisville, and I went to see her perform. That visit left a lasting impression on me. She lived in the coolest neighborhood—a stunning collection of turn-of-the-century homes, so many and so close together, unlike anything I’d ever seen. Her apartment was in one of the courtyard homes, where the houses faced each other with a shared central courtyard. It felt like being at camp, but instead of a rustic setting, it was in this urban, sophisticated, yet worn-down enclave. I was in love.

(l -r) Brown Hotel, the famous Hot Brown, Fleur de Flea and Old Louisville

Honestly, I had completely forgotten about Old Louisville. My focus was on all the fun reasons for our trip—the infamous "Fleur de Flea," savoring a Hot Brown at the Brown Hotel, and soaking up the charm at the historic Seelbach Hotel. We were having such a blast that the neighborhood didn’t even cross my mind until later. But as I was planning our day, that memory of Old Louisville suddenly resurfaced. Without missing a beat, I texted my friend Amanda to confirm, and as soon as she said it was indeed Old Louisville, we made an abrupt detour to check it out.

Old hotel dilemmas

I have to pause here to talk about our stay at the Seelbach Hotel. It’s a historic gem, and while it’s been upgraded, it might not be what you’d expect. Picture this: there were three of us girls, and our room had two full-sized beds. Two. Full. Beds. One bed, two friends. No sleep.

But despite the tight sleeping arrangements, the Seelbach is full of fascinating details. For example, the solid wood doors had built-in shoe shine boxes at the bottom where men’s shoes were placed to be cleaned overnight. These charming touches offer a glimpse into a world where luxury was different back then.

Seelbach and F. Scott Fitzgerald

One of the most famous figures to be influenced by the Seelbach is F. Scott Fitzgerald. The author of the American classic The Great Gatsby spent time at the hotel while training for the U.S. Army during World War I. It was here that he encountered the charismatic gangster George Remus, who would later serve as the inspiration for the novel's enigmatic protagonist, Jay Gatsby.

Fitzgerald was so captivated by the Seelbach's grandeur and the atmosphere of the Roaring Twenties that he used the hotel as a model for the fictional hotel where Tom and Daisy Buchanan's wedding takes place. The Seelbach's opulent ballroom, with its ornate chandeliers and gilded ceilings, perfectly captured the spirit of the era and provided a fitting setting for the novel's lavish social events.

Old Louisville history

Here’s a bit of the neighborhood’s history: In 1883, the Southern Exposition of Art, Industry, and Agriculture opened for a five year run on the 40 acre grounds that extended from Park Ave. to Hill St. and from 4th to 6th Sts. The main two-story 600 x 900 sq. ft. wood-framed main building was on the present site of St. James, Fountain, and Belgravia Courts. The marvel of the exposition was the largest ever display of electric lighting, 4600 Edison incandescent bulbs. One million people visited the exposition over five years.

After the Southern Exposition closed and was disassembled in 1887 the area was subdivided to include center greens, three walking courts, and a fountain imported from New England. The original fountain was replaced in the 1970s.

The Conrad-Caldwell House Museum, also known as Conrad’s Castle, is the most stunning of Old Louisville’s homes and defines Richardsonian Romanesque architecture. The house was built for a Frenchman who made his fortune in the leather tanning business. The St. James Court Historic Foundation purchased the home in 1987, restored it, and operates the museum today.

Most notably, the neighborhood boasts the largest collection of Victorian mansions in the United States.

In the two decades that followed, Old Louisville became the fashionable place to live, especially along Third and Fourth Streets. Revival architectural styles from England’s Victorian era dominated as new subdivisions were added.

Old Louisville Wanes

But by the time World War I began, Old Louisville's popularity had waned. The allure of newer suburbs, made accessible by electric streetcars and automobiles, drew families away. These newer homes, with improved electric, plumbing, and heating systems, were more appealing, leading to a shift in the neighborhood's character as businesses moved in and residential properties were repurposed or demolished.

Between the 1920s and 1950s, commercial development pressures dramatically altered Old Louisville. Automobile dealerships took over many homes from Broadway to Oak Street, and other businesses followed suit, expanding parking at the cost of historic residences. The loss of homeowners accelerated between 1950 and 1970 as more people moved to the suburbs.

In response to these changes, concerned residents took action. In 1961, Restoration, Inc. was founded to buy and renovate historic homes in Old Louisville, starting with eleven homes on Belgravia Court. Their efforts inspired others, and by 1968, homeowners, tenants, and community leaders had joined forces to rezone the area, prohibiting commercial use in residential neighborhoods and pushing for renovations. The city supported these efforts by designating Old Louisville as a Preservation District in 1974, giving it official status and protection.

By preserving our historical architecture, we honor the past and invest in the future. These buildings, constructed with quality and regional resources, stand as testaments to the enduring value of craftsmanship and sustainability.

I don't have a desire to be rich, but I do have a desire to be rich enough to renovate an old home. For now, though, I'll just wander around and discover the beauty and history of old places like Old Louisville.

Why Preserving Buildings Matters:

Cultural Heritage: Historical buildings offer a tangible connection to our past. They tell the stories of those who came before us, reflecting the cultural influences and architectural styles that have shaped our communities over time.

Quality and Longevity: Well-built structures from the past often outlast modern, cheaply made constructions. Preserving these buildings helps avoid the wastefulness of temporary structures that end up in landfills, ensuring that our architectural heritage is not lost.

Economic Value: Restoring and maintaining historic buildings can boost local economies by attracting visitors, fostering community pride, and preserving the unique character that defines a place.

Community Character: Historic neighborhoods offer a sense of identity and continuity, enhancing the quality of life for residents. They provide a distinct beauty and charm that modern developments often lack.